Day 8 - Lincoln, MT to Helena, MT

Wow. Today was one of those days you dream of when you're planning a ride like the GDMBR, where the weather is perfect: the terrain is challenging, but not so much that you're ruined at the end of the day; the people are all friendly, kind and generous; and the food is all delicious and even home-made!

We began the day inauspiciously in the small town of Lincoln, with a damp chill in the air- 37F and foggy, but with a forecast for clearing sky's and warmer temps by mid morning. 

After a big breakfast at Lambkins Cafe, Mike and I set off to tackle Stemple Pass-  a 16 mile, 2200' climb starting about 100 yards from the cafe.  Sure enough, within 45 minutes, the fog began to lift, and we each began shedding layers.

  The road profile looked like a near perfect exponential curve, with easy grades to start, and the steeper and steeper pitches as we neared the top, with a good chunk over 12-14%. Carrying 35-40lbs of gear made that pretty well unrideable, so I know I did at least a mile of "hike-a-bike." We each reached the top before 11am though, and all along the way the views were spectacular. Our first "recrossing" of the continental divide!

Next came out descent to the famous Llama Ranch, a mainstay for weary and hungry travelers on the GDMBR. We bombed the 10 miles downhill in about 30 minutes, and rolled into the Llama Ranch knowing the story of the place, but having no idea about how they really operate. 

No sooner than getting a leg off our bikes we we enthusiastically greeted by Barbara, one of the owners/hosts of the ranch.  She immediately sat us down on her back porch and started offering sandwiches and drinks, as well a piece of homemade rhubarb crumble.  After our morning climbing the pass, we were both in heaven.  The "ranch" operates as a pure not-for profit serving bikers on the GDMBR, with free food, lodging ( in a variety of cabins, huts, and even a teepee).  We were genuinely sorry that we'd arrived so early in the day, or we surely would have stayed the night!

As it was still before noon, and we had a "warm showers" reservation in Helena, we decided to press on down the mountain and in to town. 

The landscape at this point changed dramatically from dense pine and fir forest to open prairie and grasslands spread across wide sweeping valleys.

After about 20 miles we summited as short ridgeline and the rather sprawling city of Helena (Montana's capital) lay before us. 

Before heading to our accomodations, we first rode into downtown so Mike could get to a bike shop and add some sealant to his tires. While there, we then again ran into Ingrid, the last of the intrepid Kiwi friends we've met still riding- she too was getting some adjustments to her bike at the same shop.  After hearing she had no place yet to stay in Helena, and the discovering that a single room at the Super 8 was almost $300, we called warm showers host and asked if we might add a third- and fortunately she said "sure!"

An hour or so later, we were greated by Dawn, our host, at her beautiful "ranchette" on the edge of Helena. Dawn has been hosting warm showers guest for almost a decade, and she is the consummate hostess! We really were given the royal treatment, including a huge home-cooked meal of pasta and salad, and a generous portion of rhubarb pie ala-mode :-) mmmmm!

As I lie here in bed writing this, looking out the window over the grasslands, I'm about to fade into a well deserved food coma. Truly an outstanding day!

Cheers from the road on the GDMBR!